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Showing posts with label churning of the ocean of milk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label churning of the ocean of milk. Show all posts

Nightlife at Siem Reap & Angkor Wat Sunrise

5th March 2012

The aromatic, flavorful spiced filled Cambodian dish.

First night there, weary from the flight and mentally exhausted from taking in Angkor Wat's magnificence, I remembered returning from the temples and taking a dip in the hotel's swimming pool while Karling collapsed in bed. We didn't do much that night except our hunger brought us somewhere nearby for yummy Cambodian dishes with rice.

So this blog review started from our 2nd night at Siem Reap. Here is my city's night life review..  

Massive painting collections everywhere at the Night Bazaar.

The staple food in Cambodia, like all over Asia, is rice, a rich source of carbohydrate. Most of the local restaurant in Siem Reap served rice with local cuisine which consist of meat in aromatic spices, in addition to stir fried vegetables and varieties of clear soup. We walked from our hotel towards the night market district, surveying the rows of eateries along the way.

For a local authentic experience, we patronized the eateries which had local Cambodian eating in it. As we sat down, immediately we were shown a different menu which flashes price of food in USD. So much for the experience, I supposed we had to pay tourist price to dine with the locals. We took it in good stride,however, to support the country's tourism industry. As we were famished, the food tasted so good it almost felt like non-spicy Thai food.

Dance, War, Idolatry Worship were the center of Angkor civilization.

From Cambodian local art and cultural schools emerged many talented painters.

After a hearty dinner, we walked towards the night market at the heart of the business district. Along the way there were several other satellites fleece markets, selling a variety of souvenirs, painting, T-shirts and crafts. The fleece market was neat and organized, where the vendors were polite and not obtrusive. The bright lights illuminated the market and its sale items, which made shopping a breezy and enjoyable experience.

Foot therapy by piranhas wannabes.

Open massage parlor for half body and foot massages.

It is apparent that the bulk of Siem Reap locals derived their rice bowl from art crafts ie paintings, wood crafts, stone carvings, etc. Nearly every corner of the night markets offers sales of paintings, with majority of them depicting Angkor Wat, Bayon temples, landscape of villages, and simple life of the Angkor monks' pilgrimage. Since these paintings are numerous, naturally many are copied version of the original. Credits should still be given to the young talents who candidly repainted or reproduce fail proof original ideas.

Besides oil paintings, there were patterns directly copied from the bas-relief walls of Angkor Wat, showing great celestial war or Angkorian army procession taking place. Being an art admirer, albeit couldn't afford art collection, it crossed my mind multiple times to purchase at least a painting which could decorate my home wall. I finally resisted the urge in order to keep within our limited travel budget.

The bright and colorful night market.

Great place for souvenir shopping.

Along the happening night markets of Siem Reap were the equally busy massage parlors that operated both outdoor and indoor. Masseurs can be seen hard at work giving the majority Western customers a rejuvenating foot, head and shoulder massage. After an exhausting hike around the temple kingdom, these tourist would naturally indulge in a blissful pampering massage that relaxed the mind and promote blood circulation at the same time.

A variant of foot massage came in the form of fish therapy, where one happily dipped his feet into a pool of piranha's domesticated cousins which happily nibble off some epidermis of the feet. We hired a full body massage session each, and were given 2 young chap to ply their trade on us, which wasn't all that remarkable.

Locally made handbags and wide range of accessories.
 
Wood, stone and metal carvings revolving around Buddhism.

Jeweleries and precious stones.

I haven't been a well traveled person but I believe Siem Reap has a wide array of crafts and souvenirs for sale, all stem from the creatively skillful hands of the locals. Art is a living for them, which can be seen from paintings, wood and stone crafts, fashion accessories, jeweleries, clothing and bags. The market was bright and colorful, only thing missing were the buzzing tourist we encountered throughout the day. Business was a little slow that night, hardly any sight of patrons let alone bargaining.

Pouch and sling bags.

Dry food (front), scarfs and sarongs.

Innovative multi-fabric backpacks and skirts. Buy it if you dare be different.

We came across some shops selling local T-shirts with Angkor Wat theme. After choosing the shop which we reckoned had the most choices in terms of size, color and pattern, we dug for T-shirts as souvenirs and gifts, for both mine and Karling's family. Selling at USD 5-7, these simple attire were made of durable garments that were meant to last. I had a fun and fulfilling time shopping for these economical fail-proof gifts that will soon find their blessed delighted owners.

Traditional health supplement to boost manlihood

Buddha was immortalized through anything Cambodians could find to carve on.

Instead of coming across shops that were exact replicas of each others ie selling the same stuffs, I was feasting my eyes, yes I could only window shop, on the wide array of sales display from each shop. Colorful handbags and backpacks which looked like multiple square shaped fabrics being sewn together caught my eyes. The same outstandingly creative design applied to skirts, which i had some doubt on its fashion savviness.

If these things doesn't stir your interest, how about cobra wine, a locally mixed cocktail derived from cobra, trusted by locals for its male vigor and vitality boosting effects.


6th March 2012

Welcome to Cambodian buffet, also melting pot of various Asian cuisine,except Malaysian.

Smile of Angkor was certainly very expensive.

One of the optional activity that can be missed is the "Smile Of Angkor", a musical performance themed around the creation to peak of Khmer civilization, namely the Angkor and Bayon era. The extravagant and over-priced entrance ticket is inclusive of buffet dinner, consisting a mixture of local Cambodian, Japanese, Korean and Western croissant. Choice of selection and quality was up to standard but don't expect fine dining cuisine.

The face of Bayon became animated and assumed the role of narrator.

Muay Thai class in progress.

We found our way into an air-conditioned medium sized hall, being seated on, what's this, rattan chairs. At least the hall seating were designed in terrace, so that viewers' pleasant evening won't be ruined by smartphones and video cameras obscuring their sights, which was rampant, despite warning (or more of pleas) not to video record and photograph any proceedings. 

As the show started, I was eager with anticipation, raising high hopes for "Smile of Angkor" to live up to its wide publicity billing and high ticket price. I sat at the edge of my rattan chair, with my video camera already flashed out... 

His majesty the king sits highly on his gold ladden throne.

The elegant temple maids cum dancers.

Combined performance by Chinese acrobats.

Against the impressive cinematic 3D backdrop and synchronized colorful lighting, emerged an angel with wings, gliding above the ground being suspended by wires, interacting with the animated face of Bayon. Bayon's stoned lips moved as it started narrating the story of Angkor's origin.

Khmer was portrayed as a strong military empire with rich cultural development. The multicast agile real life Muay Thai fighters kick-boxed and sparred their way on stage, followed by uniformed sturdy procession of the castle guards. Not to be outplayed were the elegant female casts excelling in their roles of dancers, maiden and mesmerizing Apsaras.  

The descent of a beautiful Apsara.

Battle cry lead by chief de mission the king himself.
 
All this churning for a powerful elixir that would help rule the world.

And then its King emerged, his bulky figure dressed in gold that exude an air of royalty under the grandiose spotlights. With an army of fine weaponry and intimidating offensive skills, they were ready to take on their fierce neighboring rivals. While the Khmer army braced themselves for a memorable fight, up in the sky an epic battle between good versus evil, spanned for celestial years with no conclusion, is the "Churning of The Sea of Milk".

Coming to the conclusion of this blog series, I had asked various locals the full story and meaning behind this Hindu folklore, only to be letdown by struggled attempts of explanation. Finally, I found this colorfully illustrated effort. For the non-believers, which includes me, do take it with a pinch of salt.   

"Churning of the Ocean of Milk"

Showering in the waterfall is so refreshing.

Buddhism became the national religion of Cambodia.

Me with the ancient Angkorians.

The soundtrack of the musical, I wonder if they were the original score. Could easily pass out as Buddhist meditation tracks, adding elements of Asian ethnic musical play. As our attention span slowly started to dwindle, suddenly fountains of rainbow water sprinkled out from the front stage.Call me a caveman, apart from seeing artificial mist floating during play, I've never encountered special effect on stage utilizing water. It was precisely that time fine village ladies wrapped in "Sarongs" danced their way out and shower under the refreshing waterfall.

The show ended by glorifying modern day Angkor as a Buddhist hub and culturally rich country. For all the publicity it made, the Smile of Angkor was a commendable effort in story-telling, visual effects, dance choreography and costume designs. Apart from lamenting the exorbitant ticket price, the show makes for a pleasant evening of eye-opening and heart-warming entertainment. Score: 6.5/ 10.

Roses comes in different colors.

The Blue Pumpkin is an ice-cream parlor chain for avid ice-cream lovers, found all over Siem Reap town.

Contemplating the risk of getting cholera 

It was a friendly gesture from the cast whom all emerged at the end of the show for the photography session. Viewers thronged towards the stage for their picture capturing opportunities with the more sought after king of Angkor, beautiful Apsaras and ripped Muay Thai fighters, among all.  

 Heading out from the grandest multipurpose hall in Siem Reap, our Tuk tuk driver detected us from the mass of crowd and beckoned us towards him. Our next destination was Pub Street, the most happening nightlife spot in town apart from the night market. Outside Pub Street were rows of food shacks, which some may find them dodgy, nevertheless catered various economical local cuisine.

Without a doubt the most happening night spot in town.

The Red Piano

While we are still young, we love to eat a lot.

Like its name suggest, pub street was filled with Western oriented bars, cafes, pubs and restaurants. Its no surprise majority of patrons were Westerners, luxuriously splurging their dominant currency in this 3rd world country. I could only wish to visit Europe 1 day due to my country's poorly performing economy. At the corner lot of the buzzing street was Red Piano, which attained its popularity from Angelina Jolie, who frequented the restaurant during the shooting of Tomb Raider.

Being Malaysians, most of us adopt the culture of eating around the clock, since the advent of 24hrs Mamak restaurant. Even after the prior heavy buffet dinner, I could still crave for some Western diet, along with fresh fruit juice. Time was close to 11pm, and most of the eateries were still packed.After all, there weren't much to do after sunset in Siem Reap, besides the usual souvenir shopping and getting a massage.  

Mushroom sauce grilled chicken with salad and fries.

  7th March 2012

6.15am :
Waking up at dawn just for this.

Final day of Siem Reap temple trotting as our unexpected foreign adventure was coming to an end. Not before we re-visited the mother of all temple, Angkor Wat, this time against the backdrop of sunrise. At 5.30am the temple enclosure was pitch black, the break of dawn dimly illuminated the domes. Tourist gathered at the lake slightly northwest to the iconic structure, admiring its outline gradually taking demarcation as the sun ray shone through the horizon.   

Oh wait, we're not the only one.

6.20am :
 No chairs to sit on.Tired...

 6.30am :
The sun is out and shining. Amazing isn't it?

The giant egg yolk which initially emerged with sheepish orange illumination had broken out with fiery bright energy that blend in with the clear blue sky. The grand Angkor Wat with its Cambodian sun smiled at us, as if it was bidding me farewell, given that in 2 hours time we'll be departing home. By now, I could sense Karling's annoyance and restlessness with my obsession of moments capturing.

As i boarded Airasia to return home, I pondered on the amazing once in a lifetime experience I just went through. This excursion was in fact organized impromptu just 1 week ago to make up with Karling after our fights. I doubt she would completely forgive me for my faults but I wont regret this trip now that I have crossed ancient Angkor civilization off my bucket list.

6.45am :
Good bye Angkor Wat. Until next time. Do always stay gorgeous.

 One day my grandchildren will laugh at this picture of me.

Nothing last forever, as temples can turn to ruins and become desecrated, civilization and culture can be wiped out and forsaken. Therefore I will endeavor to construct a family legacy that last by providing the best upbringing, education and learning experience my children can receive.    

Land of Khmer, Birthplace of Angkor Wat

4th March 2012

The cliche said, "Now everyone can fly".

The trip to Siem Reap was an impromptu decision, largely an effort from my part to make up for something. And judging from the frequent fiery confrontation and sometimes lukewarm response even months after the return, I supposed the trip was more beneficial to me than for us. Still, being at Siem Reap was an eye-opener for its truly mystical and surreal ancient civilization temple, crossing an important one from my bucket list early on.  

Cambodian building, with its pointy Spire and everything.

Air Asia was the way to fly as it was a world re-known low cost air carrier. We booked return flights, hotel and Tonle Sap lake tour online all from the Airasia travel website. Convenient way to arrange a short excursion if one's not traveling on a shoestring. The green bucks (US Dollars) was guaranteed to get us around but no harm exchanging some Cambodian Riel. We touched down Siem Reap early morning at 7 plus am, checked into the hotel, then wasted no time hiring a Tuk-tuk to bring us to Angkor Wat.

Our mode of transport practically everywhere we went, the "Tuk-tuk".

The name Siem Reap translates literally to the "Defeat of Siam (today's Thailand), relating to the centuries-old conflict between the Siamese and Khmer (Cambodian) people. The name was given by King Ang Chan (1516–1566) after his victory against a Siamese invasion, slaying Prince Ong, and capturing no less than 10,000 Siamese troops. All this for a white elephant according to Khmer history.

Later though from the 16th-19th centuries, feuds among the Khmer lords caused interventions and domination from their more powerful neighbors: Dai Viet (Vietnam) and Siam. Siem Reap was little more than a village under Siamese administration when the first French explorers discovered the splendor and grandiose architecture of Angkor in the 19th century. This resulted in the French invading Thailand for the acquisition of Angkor by French Indochina in 1907.

They even had a musical on Angkor Wat. Maybe Malacca/Melaka should draw some ideas from them.

The clean tranquil forest road leading to the temples.

After Cambodia gained independence from France in 1953, Siem Reap continued growing as an international tourist hub, serving as a gateway to the magnificent Angkor temples. However, in the 1970s till 80s the country was plunged into carnage by civil war, ethnic cleansing genocide by communist Khmer Rouge, and the Vietnam-Cambodian war in succession. During this period of unrest, Siem Reap entered a long slumber from which it only began to awake in the mid 1990s.

....and that was just the compact summarized history of Siem Reap, Cambodia. Still to follow, ancient Angkor history. But first, a video on our arrival at the world's largest temple, Angkor Wat. 

"Wow, this was like something out of the movies!"

Aerial view of the grand Angkor Wat.

The Angkorian period started in AD 802 and ended in 1432, with Hinduism the pioneer religion. It was during this period that all those Angkor temples were built. King Jayavarman II was the founder of the Angkor empire, and he proclaimed himself a Devaraja (Deva = god, raja = king) possessing similar powers to the Hindu god Shiva. This god-king theme was adopted by his successors throughout Angkor Wat's history.

AD 1002-49 was the classical age, which means abundant temple building. Suryavarman I expanded the Khmer empire perhaps to its greatest extent. He is believed to be the promoter of Buddhism in Cambodia. Although he adopted the god-king status, Buddhism and Buddhist sculptures made their way into the Angkor city. Today, 97% of Cambodians are Buddhist.

The Angkor Wat we all know was built during 1112-52 by Suryavarman II, which he dedicated solely to the Hindu god Vishnu. Although Angkor Wat signifies the high achievement of the Khmer people, supposedly its construction caused major strains on the warring Khmer empire. The city was overpopulated, the agriculture could not keep up with demands, and canals had started to dry up.

1181-1219 was the peak of Angkor history. Jayavarman VII took over the reign of the Khmer empire, reclaiming it after the Dai Viet (Vietnam) invasion. He built Angkor Thom (a humongous temple complex larger than Angkor Wat), Preah Khan, Banteay Kdei, and Ta Prohm.

Instead of continuing the tradition of Hinduism, Jayavarman VII adopted Buddism and built Buddha structures in his temples. This was most noted in Bayon, one of the most famous Angkorian temples, with its 216 four-faced Buddha statues. After his death, the empire steadily went into decline, and for a century the state religion was once again Hinduism. This change made its way to the temples, where Buddha figures were defaced and destroyed. The Angkorian empire practically ended when the Thais attacked Angkor in 1351 and 1431.

The temple surrounded by moat, almost like castle with its primary defense.

I got to try the panoramic feature on my new camera.

On the causeway leading to the outer wall entrance.

Enter Angkor Wat, the largest religious structure in the world, listed as UNESCO heritage site and rightly so. Built in the 12th century, it is nearly a millennium old . The Angkor Wat is so large that, measuring 1.5km x 1.3km with the moat included, it is known as "temple that is a city" (Angkor = city, Wat = temple). As you can see from the video and pictures above, the temple is surrounded entirely by a moat.  From the west, a sandstone causeway crosses the 190m-wide moat into the temple's outer walls.

moat = deep broad ditch filled with water that surrounds a castle/fortification to provide it with a preliminary line of defense.

Angkor is the earthly representation of Mount Meru, the Mt Olympus of the Hindu faith and the abode of ancient gods. The peculiarity of Angkor Wat as compared to other Angkorian temples lies in its western orientation (ie entrance facing west). Vishnu the Hindu God, of which the temple is dedicated to, is associated with the west. Symbolically, west is also the direction of death, suggesting that Angkor Wat served both as a temple and mausoleum for Suryavarman II. The king, however was never buried there as he died in battle against the Dai Viet(Vietnamese).
Inside the entrance of the outer wall

The outer wall from inside. Looked to my left.

..looked to my right. Good, nothing malicious or those-sort-of-things jumped out to attack me.

We crossed the moat via the causeway and arrived at the entrance of the outer wall. Greeting us at the main entrance was a 235m-wide porch richly decorated with carvings and sculptures. This 1.025 x 0.8km wall encloses a wide temple courtyard. I later read that supposedly there was a statue of Vishnu, 3.25m in height with its 8 arms holding a mace, a spear, a disc, a conch and other items, located in the right-hand tower. We somehow missed it as we didn't hire any tour guide.


The library, for the use of ancient worshiper.

Exiting the outer wall we stepped onto the avenue which was 475m long and 9.5m wide, most of it lined with Naga (8 headed serpent) balustrades. The avenue connected the main entrance to the central temple, passing between two libraries followed by two pools, the northern one known as the reflecting pool. During wet season, it serve as the best spot for photographing the magnificent temple towers against a backdrop of sun rise, with the pool providing a nice reflection. 

The avenue flanked by Naga balustrades. On its left was the popular reflecting pool.

The gopuras ie temple towers became closer, and closer.

Angkor Wat is the heart and soul of Cambodia. It is the national symbol, the epicentre of Khmer civilisation and a source of fierce national pride, as evidently symbolized on its national flag. According to inscriptions, the construction of Angkor Wat involved 300,000 laborers and 6000 elephants, still the temple was not fully completed. The sandstone blocks from which Angkor Wat was built were quarried more than 50km away, from the holy mountain of Phnom Kulen and floated down the Siem Reap River on rafts, an unbelievable feat given the non-existence of modern technology. 

Back to our walk, at the end of the 475m long avenue was the entrance to the central complex, via the Cruciform Terrace. On entering into the outer gallery, the walls were lined with intricate large scale bas reliefs depicting episodes from the Hindu epics the Ramayana and Mahabharata. These bas relief were designed to be viewed in anticlockwise direction, a practice that has precedents in ancient Hindu funerary rite, again suggesting Angkor Wat was also a mausoleum.

There are a total 8 themes of Hindu mythology bas reliefs on the outer gallery. I've found a map below that list them according to their locations. There are plenty of information on the internet if it intrigues you to seek more details. 

Bas relief on the walls of the outer gallery.

It appeared to be a great war taking place.

8 themes of Hindu mythology, meant to be viewed anti-clockwise.

The central temple complex consisted of three storeys, each one higher than the outer. Enter The Gallery of  A Thousand Buddhas (Preah Poan), as the name suggested was a cloister which formerly housed hundreds of Buddha images. Most of them were now gone as a result of looting. Within the cloister were 4 small courtyards with what was intended to be a religious pool in each of them, but none were filled with water.

This place felt very ancient and mystical. I imagined wandering here without the crowd buzz. That would have heightened my sentiment by transporting me back to those days. The surrounding was calm and peaceful, making it an ideal meditation sanctuary it once was. By now parts of the former Buddha images had made it all over the world through black market, depriving Preah Poan from living up to its glorious name.  

Gallery of  A Thousand Buddhas (Preah Poan)

which contained 4 cloister, each harboring a "pool".

A real life Apsara. Truly worshiped by photographers.

Perhaps the remain of a decapitated Buddha.

As we emerged from Preah Poan, we arrived at the second level enclosure of the temple complex, greeted by the grand sight of the Gopuras (towers) erecting centrally. The iconic lotus-bud towers were built at all 4 corners of the 2nd and 3rd level of the temple, forming a quincunx with the central tower. The central tower rose 31m above the third level and 55m above the ground, representing Mount Meru, the center of Hindu universe.

quincunx =  a geometric pattern of five points in a square or rectangle, with one at each corner and one in the middle.

Admiring the 3rd level structure from the 2nd level.

The steep steps depicting the daunting task to nirvana

The towers and its steep stairs. Known to be harder to descend than ascend. 

The second level enclosure measured 115m x 100m, may originally have been flooded to represent the ocean around Mt Meru. Along the inner walls of the enclosure were bas reliefs of Apsaras ie divine nymphs or celestial dancing girls, characters from Indian mythology. It was written the largest population of Apsaras (2000 of them) lied in Angkor Wat. Little stood between the appearance of Apsaras and Devatas where the former always appear dancing while the latter were female deities poised as temple guardians.


The merry band of Apsaras sure never got lonely at night.

The Apsaras doing the Macarena.

Perhaps they were part of the cast from the Smile of Angkor musical.

 The third and final level was located in the middle of these second-level towers. The stairs to the upper level were immensely steep, symbolizing that reaching the kingdom of the gods was no easy task. Unsurprisingly there were casualties before on these steps. For safety reason the 3rd level temple was closed to visitors for a few years, until the Apsara authority placed metal stairs with railings on one of the steps, making it possible to complete the pilgrimage with ascension to the summit.

Was it holiday season in Korea?
The line leading to the metal railed stairs to ascend the 3rd level. Only certain number of visitors  allowed per time.

The original life threatening steps were out of bound.

 Even so the climb was an adrenaline rush.

Next we made our way to the third level of  the temple complex, also known as the Bakan. The smallest and highest part of Angkor Wat, they limit entrance into this space to only a handful of tourists at a time. Up there facing west, we could see the entire temple from a cool vantage point, while towards the far east were endless forest without any skyscraper in sight. 

As one could finally appreciate the panoramic view from the balconies, it would be good to contemplate the meaning of Angkor Wat: Since the spatial dimensions of Angkor Wat paralleled the lengths of the four ages (Yuga) of classical Hindu thought, thus visitors who walked the causeway to the final main tower were metaphorically traveling back to the first age of the creation of Hindu universe. Angkor Wat also replicated the spatial universe, where its central tower is Mt Meru, with its surrounding smaller peaks, bounded by continents (the lower courtyards) and the oceans (the moat). The seven-headed Naga balustrade along the causeway became a symbolic rainbow bridge for man to reach the abode of the gods.

The innermost courtyard at the highest level.

One of the lotus-bud Gopuras with its meticulous carvings
A zoomed in view of the avenue leading to the temple complex. Notice the lintels on top of a roof.

Maybe this is Vishnu. He looked menacing with the Nagas hissing behind him.

To have finally made it to the top of the world's largest temple was quite an achievement. Traveling here to bask myself in this iconic monument of an ancient Khmer civilization was certainly once in a lifetime experience. I found myself transported to a different era in an surreal land, almost like a land belonging to deities and foreign gods, which I took it with a pinch of salt since I didn't agree with idolatry worship.

It was lunch time once we completed the temple within half a day. Earlier, any feeling of jet lag quickly dissipated as we were driven by the excitement to explore. Still, all the walking had made us famished. The Tuk-tuk took us to a shack just opposite the temple, where we had our 1st taste of Cambodian food. As the saying went, everything tasted delicious when one was starving. After refueling our body, Tuk-tuk transported us back to the 12th century, where Angkor Thom awaited us.


The bridesmaids searching for the runaway bride.
This was how Angkor/Khmer soldiers looked, pretty cool~

I like Cambodian food! Aromatic, pungent and tasty.